Down the Road: The Wild McCarthy Road to Kennecott Mine

Kennecott Mines, Alaska

McCarthy Road

The Kennecott Mines. Our destination.

On the way out of Valdez we wanted to drive through the Valdez Glacier Campground. It's marked as a military campground but it's opened to the public. It's a very large campground with grassy and wooded sites. I'm glad we chose to stay right in town but this could work if you had e-bikes to travel back into town.

The Valdez Glacier and viewpoint are just down the road. Initially we wanted to kayak here but it was very buggy and the current was pretty strong. We chose to hike it instead. The glacier is 20 miles long and sits in the Chugach Mountains. The lake it creates at the terminus is 640 feet deep.

Waterfall in the Valdez Glacier Campground

We were driving along Rt.4 near Chitina when we could see something dark on the road ahead. We thought it was a bear. As we got closer we could see it was a Yak. It ran back and forth across the road. Seems it was an escapee from a nearby Yak Farm.

More breathtaking mountain views as we neared our next adventure. We are headed for the Kennecott Mines.

After passing through Chitina and crossing the Chitina River, the journey on 60 miles of mostly unpaved, bumpy, narrow road begins. Most people do not drive out here because the road is known to be very treacherous depending on grading, weather, potholes and soft, muddy washouts. It's considered one of Alaska's most difficult. McCarthy Road is built on the railroad bed of the defunct Copper River & Northwestern Railway. The road still has many railroad spikes that get dredged up to the surface with occasional grading. This and other debris can leave you with flat tires. It's so bad most rental cars are not allowed up here. Luckily we had no issues either direction. It can be driven in one very long day, but we broke it up into two days. There is no gas, services or cell along the way so be very prepared.

As you pass the shallow flats on the Copper River you can see many fish wheels and fishermen dip netting for Copper River Salmon.

Strelna Creek

Boondocking

After driving for a few hours, the last 2 of which were quite interesting with the road conditions, we pulled over along Strenla Creek to rest up and spend the night. It was easy to get to and could fit a couple of rigs. The coords are: 61.51060N, 144.06791W

We love all this wild, free camping!

Strenla Creek out our back doors.

We drove an average of 10 - 15 mph. Occasionally a bit faster. Plenty of ruts, mud, runnoff, and rocks to dodge. The scenery was beautiful. Ponds, lakes and an occasional cabin.

The most exciting part of the road is the wild bridge crossing. Just after Mile 50 is the one lane, 525 foot long, Kuskulana River Bridge built in 1910. It is 238 feet above a gorge.

Our turn to go over.

A little scary going over the bridge in the truck camper!

A typical area where the ponds overflow the road. Problem was you could never tell how deep. With all this wilderness we found it disappointing that we never saw any wildlife. Not one bear. Not any moose, even with all the ponds.

The Gilahina Train Trestle was built in 1911 to transport copper ore. The wooden trestle is 890 feet long and 90 feet tall. The amazing thing is it was built in just 8 days.

Just 25 more miles to our next campsite.

McCarthy, Alaska

Base Camp

Boondocking in an area right next to the Kennecott River and the terminus lake of Root Glacier where the road deadends. It was $35 a night as it is private property.

Root Glacier

A pedestrian-only footbridge takes you over the river to the tiny settlement of McCarthy. There are no vehicles there except vans to transport visitors up to the mines. You can either walk the 1/2 mile to town or take a shuttle van. Sometimes we walked, other times we took the shuttle.

Kennecott River

The first time we walked and enjoyed the trail.

In 1900 two prospectors found a "green patch" which later turned out to be copper-rich. This area was once known as the richest copper concentration in the world. There were 5 mines which produced huge amounts of copper. It was finally closed in 1938 leaving the area a ghost town. This once rowdy pioneer town now has only 35 year round residents.

Nicely done museum.

We ate at the popular Potatohead a couple of times and the Golden Saloon.

There are a few wonderful eateries, a store and a couple of small lodges.

Huge Yak hide.

If you nibble on the blue flowerbuds, they taste like cucumber.

"Rigor Mortis" built out of spare parts to help maneuver through the snow and mud.

We spent one day exploring the town. Having lunch, talking to locals, learning about the area and enjoying the bright colored buildings and area.

The next day we set up a tour of the mine. It's a 5 mile uphill walk or you can pay $5 to ride in the van.

Kennecott Mine National Historic Landmark is made up of many buildings besides the picturesque Mill. The tour was about 2+ hours which included a nice guide with explanations of the buildings, history and other interesting info. $30. There is some switchback hiking to get to the top, then we walked down the 14 story Mill. Even though they are constantly refurbing and shoring the buildings up, we were surprised that we were allowed to walk through the Mill.

Park staff stay here now.

Original glass in the panes.

Looking way over the edge you can see where garbage was dumped way back.

A zoomed in view shows you old barrels and other old building material.

The Kennecott Glacier Lodge. What a fabulous place to stay if you have the time and money. $200+ a night with gourmet meals offered in the restaurant.

This was once a hospital.

You have to hike up to the top of the Mill. The trail is just beyond the smaller red building before the Mill. It takes you up along a hillside with views over a creek.

At the top getting ready to put on our hardhats and explore with our great guide.

Looking down at the smelter from one of the top windows.

We trekked down several staircases. Some quite steep. Some ladders.

When the Mill was closed, people walked out for the last time and items were left behind. I wonder who wore this glove? What was their life and job like?

So much interesting history and machines.

Once at the bottom we could walk around on our own and explore a little more.

We went back down to town and had some drinks and dinner and just soaked in this unique place that doesn't get many visitors. What a privilege to be here.

The drive back was just as interesting as the way in. Slow, bumpy and bouncy. This little lake had a private cabin at the end of it. Just beautiful. There was a float plane "parked" out front.

So many ponds but no moose.

One last trip over the Kuskulana River Bridge looking 238 feet over the edge!!!

Well, we made it out. We were so relieved to have no tire problems.

The fishermen were busy dip netting so we pulled over to watch after crossing the bridge. They use what looks like long PVC pipe handles with nets at the end they use to scoop up the salmon as they walk along the shore. This is only allowed if you are First Nation (native).